Alexander McQueen as a brand has been in our mind since the latest years of last century. The beginning of the brand was controversial as no other due to the fact that the concept (including setting and makeup) was so incredible graphic. The original designer used the work for the brand to express all his darkest thoughts. In the 90s the collections of the brand were one of the most anticipated in the London Fashion Week schedule, but this hype did not affect to the quality of the piece or the ideas behind them. It was part of the underground sphere until he stepped it up to become the Givenchy head designer for a few seasons.
His story is quite tragic due to his death being a decision made by him. After this event, the whole fashion world was in shock and no one knew what to do with the future of the brand. Thanks to being part of Kering it was easier to do the transition because it was more of a work thing and not a personal one. The selection to be the next creative director of the Alexander McQueen team was Sarah Burton, the right hand of the great designer in all his work. Since her appointment, she has served collections full of references from all the years and focusing in tailoring and all the loose and soft design from the archives of the brand.
The Alexander McQueen FW22 Menswear is a continuation of the Pre-Fall 2022, in which Sarah Burton presented a wide range of womenswear garments that follow a certain aesthetic, very structured tailoring mixed with draped and flowy dresses. Sarah Burton translated all this coding into a well curated collection for menswear that she showed at the same time in stores that the collection previously mentioned but she did not presented it until months after. In this case, different artists were not involved in taking photos from the collection to create a certain piece of art, is just simply a presentation to clothing that is well made and with a certain aesthetic.
The color scheme is pretty restricted at its most, black and white with a pop of red and yellow. The looks feels a progression of the manly look that almost every time are presented in the mens shows. Here she used some transparencies, laces and drapery (in form of a dress) that you are not used to see. The man presented in this garments, is one that knows who he is and want to express his emotions.
Alvaro Ramos
