The London Fashion Week Men’s 2023 showcased some of the most innovative and stylish looks from British and international designers. From classic tailoring to edgy streetwear, the runway was full of diversity and creativity. During its fashion weeks, the city’s established and emerging designers shined. Here are some of the best looks and highlights from the event:
Highlighted at the June showcase were several promising designers to watch. Among them were BFC NEWGEN designer Saul Nash, Sagaboi, and talented graduates from Ravensbourne and Westminster Universities. Noteworthy contributions came from SMR Days, a London brand established in 2020 by industry veterans Adam Shapiro, Dan May, and Gautam Rajani, as well as the creative works of menswear designer Justin Cassin, based in Los Angeles.
Set against the backdrop of a sun-kissed London rooftop, SMR Days showcased a collection of unparalleled chicness, drawing inspiration from the captivating essence of North Africa. The garments boasted bold block prints, mesmerizing hexagonal, checkerboard, and tessellated diamond patterns, beautifully adorning shirts, jackets, trousers, and shorts crafted from exquisite kala cottons and luxurious silks. This artistry came to life through the hands of skilled artisans in Jaipur, who applied traditional hand-craftsmanship techniques to bring these designs into the realm of modernity. To complete the ensemble, an array of striking bags in varying sizes were introduced—a captivating collaboration between SMR Days and the independent Maison Bengal. This ethical, fair trade brand has dedicated itself to combating poverty in Bangladesh, with a specific focus on empowering mothers and young women.
In his second collection, building upon the energy and vibrancy of his lively brand launch last season, designer Geoff Cooper delves into the profound theme of migration and the enthralling responses that cultures elicit when introduced to new spaces. Sagaboi, intertwined with the Caribbean subculture of “saga boy,” harkens back to the 1930s, representing a form of masculine rebellion expressed through fashion, exuding extreme style and elegance. The SS24 collection, aptly named “Fresh Off The Boat,” takes root in the heart of the Caribbean, infusing fashion with unbridled energy that emanates from its vibrant color palettes, rich textures, captivating prints, and skillful manipulations—a resounding proclamation of cultural intermixing.
Highlighted within the Sagaboi collection are standout pieces that capture attention, such as a captivating steel pan vest available in a spectrum of colors, alongside exquisite knitwear meticulously crafted by talented female artisans in the Caribbean. Diverse fabrics take center stage, including denim, linen, raw silk, Sea Island cotton, and suede, adding depth and texture to the collection. Embracing a decidedly tropical vibe, the color palette bursts with vibrant blues, reds, and yellows, harmoniously intertwined with pastel tones of ecru, lilac, yellow, peach, mint, and sand. The choice of the Museum of London Docklands as the runway show’s venue proves fitting, situated at West India Quay in East London—a converted Georgian sugar warehouse that beautifully tells the narrative of the port, river, and city, with a particular focus on the intertwining themes of trade, migration, and commerce.
Renowned menswear designer and choreographer Saul Nash effortlessly continues to bridge the gap between luxury menswear and sportswear, presenting a remarkable collection of distinctive technical garments meticulously designed and cut to empower freedom of movement. Fashion experts universally admire Nash’s creations, with Sarah Mower from American Vogue praising his work for its “sensitivity and intelligence” evident throughout the very structure of his designs. Hypebeast boldly declares him as the “next superstar of sportswear,” solidifying his status as a rising talent in the industry.
While it wasn’t as jam-packed with big names as in previous seasons, the three-day showcase still proved that London is the place to discover excellent emerging talent. Alongside Martine Rose, who has made a name for herself thanks to her stellar designs, which have found their way onto the backs of Drake and Rihanna, the likes of Carlota Berera, AGR Knit, and Robyn Lynch presented their Spring 2023 collections.
