Burberry’s first physical fashion show since the pandemic began was a multi-sensory and not at all inconsequential. Described by many as Riccardo Tisci’s (its creative director) “most Burberry” collection to date, it focused on the concept of chaos in two collections: one for girls and one for boys. A massive fashion show, held in London’s Central Hall Westminster, right in front of the Houses of Parliament. A nod to the seat of European democracy where, to quote Shakespeare, “Chaos is back”.
An audience huddled in the dark, without rank or masks was the one that greeted Riccardo Tisci’s supermodels, friends and artist-celebrities. These descended from upper levels of the (wood-paneled) auditorium dressed in the specter of Tisci’s ideas about global, generational and gender non-conforming realities, British tradition and Burberry’s iconic plaids and trench coats. Meanwhile, a choir and orchestra performed.
Tisci said this: ‘”It’s a reconstructed collection of what I find at Burberry, and what I have experienced as a human at this time in Britain as well.” He said he had focused on waxed and quilted country coats, and that he had brought out the symbol of the Burberry Prorsum gentleman on horseback. A youthful Burberry symbol of the moment: a half baseball cap, topped by an Alice band was the star accessory. At times, it looked like an equestrian leather helmet, at others, a crazy combination of crystal and streetwear. Although all in a classic, sober and timeless key where black, grays, red, camel and brown are the main colors.