As in almost every European city there is a fashion week, in the case of Copenhague, there has been an increase on the fashion market to see what is new in that region, because the Nordic audience is big and has a lot of impact in the sales for FW of the big industry plants. That is why we can consider CPFW as one of the fashion capitals at the moment, because is trendy and even TikTok support the event (being one of the events of the year for Denmark). The major focus in clothing there are the sustainability aspect, a minimalist way of doing thing and easy to wear garments. Let’s see what is new this season reviewing some of collections tat were part of the official calendar and have the backing of Vogue Runway.
HOLZWEILER
At the beginning of summer, a Chinese company added to their conglomerate this Norwegian brand that in this season wants to be grateful for the trust they received. The collection is called In Motion due to the recent changes in the brand and the nature that it has to being evolving constantly in the design and business team. This time Maria Skappel Holzweiler focus on giving us a neutral color scheme full of texture, using up-cycled materials and making one of one pieces for the show that if they get acceptance they would get into production before the season begins.
BERNER KÜHL
After two incredible seasons since they enter in the CPFW, the brand has create another collection that focus on minimalism and encourage the consumer to have staple pieces their closets to be part of the sustainability movement. Frederick Berner Kühl was very inspired by Helmut Lang on the 90s but with a twist iin the selection of materials on it, relying on a lot of nylon. Making tailoring that leans to casual is a big hit for the brand, du to the rise of people that wear it and wants to feel comfortable on it so he is reducing the two buttons of the jackets into one. The fantasy that the brand creates is not one where flamboyant thing happens, it focus conceiving garments that can go to the streets right after the runway ends.
(DI)VISION
The new collection by Simon and Nana Wick part from the recent Ukrainian War and the impact it had in the European society. They needed to show that even in war there is space to do other things and some of the clothes express that in a perfect way. Up-cycling is the technique they use to create the garments in the collection, because it has been like this for over four years. The work with patchwork give life to the garments and makes them come alive. The brand is against war but they are giving out some amazing pieces inspired military that can be used as a conceptual protest.
RAEBURN
This brand has a lot of experience in the industry (over a decade working on it) but this year Zalando has trusted them and they became one of the three finalist of a sustainable prize they give. Since the beginning Christopher Raeburn has used recycled materials to do his collections, but this time he focus on parachutes to create a selection of street wear pieces that ensamble the idea of not having the future as clear as we think it is. The vibe is just right, having military and casual wear together makes so much sense in a world of political instability.
SOULLAND
The work of Silas Adler is represented in this collection as amalgam of inspirations that converges into street wear pieces that can be worn by male or female. The brand started as an skater focus one and then became a menswear one, but in recent times he decided to add also womenswear but assuring that there is no difference between the quality of both departments in the brand. The ironic but fun Hello Kitty collaboration is on some of the pieces, but as we said this is a collection that is full of references. Other one is that little Spring Devil that decorate some of the clothing as a print. In conclusion, we are going to see some of this garments in the streets next season clearly and easily due to the wow factor that some of the pieces have.
Alvaro Ramos
