Moschino is back at Milan Fashion Week and that is a reason to celebrate. Jeremy Scott prepared a fashion show for this occasion very true to the aesthetic of himself and the brand itself. To show it the best models in the world at the moment were recruited to create a unforgettable moment (Nacho Penin and Fernando Lindez representing Spain). The codes of the runway were very simple, the creative director just want to have fun and mix influences that inspired him to be where he is now. Fashion is all about expressing yourself and his work at Moschino is a good represention of it. Being the first exclusive menswear show of the brand under his vision, it was going to be an impactful one.
The inspiration was the work of Tony Viramontes in his full potential. This artist from last century was a great fashion illustrator and photographer and got recognize in USA and in Japan. His work was very expressive and colorful with loose brushstrokes, all of it reflected in the prints used through out the collection. The new inspiration served to change the look of the classical Moschino cuts and silhouettes. Some garments even follow with its own structure the prints, getting a fine and fluent result
The styling was all about retrospective to one of the most iconic movements of the 80s. The Buffalo revolution promoted by the photographer Jamie Morgan and the stylist Ray Petri, got into our minds through the pages of The Face, where Jeremy Scott found out. It is a provocative, sexy and liberal way of dressing, where men wore skirts or boxers and trooper boots. It was an attitude against the sartorial market that existed and prevailed in the menswear scene of that certain period of time. It was a subculture born out of the necessity of change in the fashion editorial industrial and was focus on the creatives of the industry from all ages, instead on a young public only.
The hats with the used of latex in yuxtaposition of denim or other fabric gave this collection a feeling of aggressiveness that was never seen before in the brand DNA. The makeup also was so expressive (the dark eyeshadows looked so good) and went so well with the theme of the show. A new attempt of Jeremy Scott to setting some trends without selling out to the mainstream public with easy and commercial designs.
Alvaro Ramos