One of the most important fashion weeks in the world, the New York Fashion Week, has ended last Wednesday night and we arer here to comment in some of the runways that had an impact in our perception of fashion and think that is important for the fashion world. Finallly, the Fifth Avenue is going to relax for a little bit, because it was stressful to live from a catwalk to another the whole day, in a city that if you do not get a cab you are lost. In this occasion, one of the moments that I want to remember and I think was important for the industry was the night where Vogue did a runway in which they show the talents that they discover around the world and the ones who they are putting trust on. There the models could walk as they want and it was such a fun event. But let’s not forget the more impactful runways for menswear.
DION LEE
The Australian designer presented for the SS22 season a wonderful collection full of references to nature which he thinks that are indispensable, because he just live between plants if you put a foot in the outside world. Dion Lee has been always in the top of the game with impossible but fitting cutouts and incredible styling. The casting was wide and well selected, as the garments which he is presenting looks that can be for any situation of the day. The more moto inspired looks can be a referenced to the Motomami looks that Rosalia is wearing in her tour and which are design by the brand as well. The skyline of New York really enjoy this presentation that take nature as the main inspiration but always look forward into the future in styling and silhouettes are referred.
COACH
Stuart Vevers, the creative behind the work that Coach is putting out since 2014, is presenting a new set of pieces that are going to be direct to consumers fans of the brand. The idea behind this collection is to present one good piece for each category and run with it. Putting out the best of each category is a smart movement in a industry where waste is a big problem. Also, he is relying on their ambassador Lil Nas X to close the show and to get inspiration from him, which is interpret as random garments that loose the connection with the rest of the show. The inspiration behind this very well fitted arrange of clothing for every wardrobe is the sensation to go to the beach in New York.
BARRAGAN
David Barragán is always putting out commentaries in every social issues that is occurring in the USA at the moment, due to his Latin roots that had let him to experience some racist situations through out his entire life. This time, in the first live presentation after the pandemic of the brand, he is taking as inspiration the back to business culture and all the whiteness that people from other races and countries might experience just not being white in that country. For this reason, he casted only white models to show that racialized people can do it so, specially if is fitting for the theme. The clothing where exquisite as always, with a wasted look in every garment that seem to be run over the consumerism that is integrate in the American society. The use of words in some of the designs allowed the creative to express some funny jokes.
PETER DO
New York has been always a fashion place where formal wear could expand so much due to the fact that we are in the city that is ready for business 24/7. Peter Do knows it and after presenting only womenswear collection he wanted to step out of his comfort zone and reflect all the knowledge of tailoring into menswear or even gender neutral wear really. The idea of this collection is a disruptive point in the history of the brand to become more inclusive and open the whole public than ever. The casting was really all over the place and full of representation, with a lot of big stars in it. TIME is the name of a collection that might evoque the changing times we are living on currently or the need of time in a world over the controle of business people.
Alvaro Ramos
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