In this Paris Fashion Week, we saw how the Palais of Tokyo metamorphosed into an Egyptian temple. Rick Owens was inspired by the senseless destruction on repeat since the beginning of time that one of the statues at the entrance in the temple express through the representation of Horus. EDFU is the name of the religious place and the collection itself. Rick found comfort in the remoteness and scale at the Valley of Kings in compared to the social issues we are currently living as a society. The last show was centered around light, while in this one, simplicity on the cuts and shapes was it.
Rick Owens for SS23 Menswear presented a series of garments that translated the reduced structures that were made in the Ancient Egypt. Tailoring with extreme shoulders and interesting plaids had come this season. Also coats and jackets followed the same aesthetic with crisp cuts on them and very structured. Silhouettes are getting bigger than ever and some are cinched and others are floaty around the body.
The Californian designer decided to introduce some bold and kitsch colors into some of the pieces to refresh the brand inspired by slashes of slithering colors that he saw in the trip to Egypt. Some collaborations are in this collection to used some fabrics from the past and used some recycled denims to express a craftmanship through the clothing. Music was creepy and wonky reflecting the current social climate (delicious for bass music fans). In conclusion, this collection feels as order and discipline in a world full of chaos.
Alvaro Ramos