Since 2016, Anthony Vaccarello has been showing his maestry around designing clothing that is wearable but at the same time have personality. He is been getting better and better with each collection in womenswear and right now he has a very stablished list of clients and followers that is in love with his style. In menswear, he was alright but with this collection he has step up the game both with the garments and with the setting for this special occasion. The vision for Saint Laurent of the Belgian designer had touched a lot of women in the world and now is the time for the masculine part of the society.
The placement selected for the runway show this time was Marrakech. It is the perfect choice for a Spring Summer collection due to the perfect weather of the country this time of the year. Also, Yves Saint Laurent used his scapes to the Islamic country to be freedom for the movement of Paris and reflect in himself to create new collection. The same vibe that Anthony gets from Los Angeles, a city that for him keep in peace his ease and affects his creativity on positive. A circular runway is presented to the models to walk on and in the final carrousel a big circular installation get up to show a fire watery moon, an oasis in the desert.
The Yves Saint Laurent SS22 Menswear show is inspired by the briefness of events and how this ones just stay in our mind for a reduce number of times. The color scheme is a very dark one with touches of beige and magenta, Anthony is a master at it, he keeps it simple and plays with the volume and texture of the garments.
We can see in the designs that fluidity of the textile is very important for the designer and transparencies too. The way it fits to the model also is very important for the Belgian and a symbolic way of saying that the costumer is the final one to decide if the garment is perfect for him or not. The cuts and silhouettes are reminiscing of the best work at womenswear of the designer, because he wants to find the middle between masculine and feminine pieces just as in the 2000s happened, he wants a certain level of gender fluidity in his clothing and is very well expressed. The accessories and shoes are a big yes in the collection and are going to be a hit in the market. The best collection of menswear by the brand was presented and I do not know if people in the fashion community is ready for it.
Alvaro Ramos
