Paris Fashion Week for Men finished with a show that was a completely surprise. Thom Browne, after a three year hiatus from showing at the French capital, the American designer decided to show his menswear there. It was amazing to see how he was ready to show the third show of 2022 with so little time but here we are. After his success in the New York show that coincided with the aperture of the Met Museum’s exhibition curated by his fiance, this show feel fresh and a door for new adventures in the menswear space.
The setting was a pretty cute and Parisian interior, where the start of the show was marked by some females, friends of the brand, wearing full on outfits (preppy grey uniforms) and entering the space to find their seats in front row. Right afterwards, the first male model walked out with a short short showing some skin and a jockstrap. The rest is history for the books. In 2017, he was the first one to put dresses on a men, but now he wants to put them in the same level of sexualization that a women might experience in their day to day live.
The Thom Browne SS23 Menswear show was an ode to a new kind of masculinity that is ride by: short, mini, kinky and gorgeous clothing. The American designer stepped away from his simplicity in cuts and safe spot that the grey suit provided him and went into changing the way a men is looking by society. This garments full of sexyness were not made to sexualized the models if not to change how a men is perceived for what he wears. A new masculinity is being constructed by society right now and this model of living embrace nudity and being comfortable with your own skin and taste.
The most used fabric in this collection is tweed, made through artisanal ways in a lot of different colors. Sailor theme is also there to provide a manly feeling to the collection. The color scheme range from blue and red to black and white, refusing to the iconic grey of the brand. It is magical to see how womenswear and menswear are getting closer and blurring the lines between gender, just magnifique.
Alvaro Ramos
