Guram Gvasalia has been struggling to keep the hype for Vetements with the aperture of his new brand VTMNS, and in this collection we can see that it has affected to the brand. Also, when Demna left it was so difficult too to keep it at the same level as before, so I see this brand as a day-to-day kinda clothing, similar to fast fashion. The problem it is that with Demna it was all about the concept but now there is not an enough strong concept to tie all up. Menswear is lacking this season due to strong shoe pieces presented in the womenswear looks so let’s what we have to work with. But before that just say that Demna and Guram in the Resort 2023 of Balenciaga hug each other, less problem to the brand, because at one time Demna disassociated with the Gvasalia surname.
The Vetements SS23 Menswear collection was the first one in a physical format after two years and the first one to have Guram Gvasalia as the creative director of the brand. The concept was centered about the childhood of the designer and how that affected the way he perceived thing. The war was a big impact for him and it translated to the runway through age-worn pieces, some print that remembered to shopping bags in the refugee camp and even a reference to the new toy that he bought after it was burn by a fire. His grandmother was also present in the design process, as she was involved in his growing experience and her looks were a big inspiration for him.
He is trying to express how he imagine the world back then when he had no means. He is putting a punk aesthetic to some of the outfits, because he imagined normal people wearing it when he was a child. Is a very personal collection and one that might serve as a reflection about the social climate right now in Europe.