One of the hottest designers right now, Glenn Martens, that shares his work thorugh Diesel and Y/Project (and the collaboration in the couture show at the start of this year of Jean Paul Gaultier) had this last brand as his project for years, where he had been innovating and evolving as a designer getting a master in textile manipulations. His knowledge about denim get him to the position he is currently at Diesel and is infusing his style into the brand, which is taking to a whole other level the garments of it. In couture, he showed the hard work he puts into everything he do and how great of a designer he is, taking the codes of other brands and still getting to know that he designed it.
In this collection, he is presenting a variety of looks in a garden of Paris where all the high sphere of fashion is congregated to see what this man has to offer this season. For their luck, he is showing through this collection all his inspirations through these past times and is showing also what jobs he is at. The runway was a little bit dangerous for the model because it was full of rocks and some of them in high heels were risking their lives. That is how great casting he does, that no one fell and were able to pull of the clothing without any major problem.
The Y/Project SS23 show is a great example that there is no problem in repeating but with an evolving perspective the different runways, because as you do when you visit any city, each time you go, you get a different impression of it. His maestry at doing denim is shown in every pant and how he manipulate them into what he wants. The structures of some of the garments are crazy, while the silhouettes do not get left behind. Also the implementation of denim to some classical pieces in a deconstructed way is just marvelous to witness. He just want with his designs that the costumer can experiment with them and have fun.
The accessories are genius, the bag are weirdly form but with his own enchanted, and the jewelry is just otherworldly. His second installment of the collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier is presented in a trompe de l’oeil format in garments printed into other garments, not reflecting bodies into bodies. Just like in every collection of this brand, left your prejudices away and enjoy the world where fashion can get you, because there is a vast majority of designers ready to show you all their true self.
Alvaro Ramos
